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Skin care products show higher sensory performance when using natural butylene glycol compared to competing ingredients.
December 14, 2021
By: Kyle Huston
Genomatica
When it comes to personal care products, consumers are making it increasingly clear that sustainability and performance are equally important. One leading option that delivers in both areas is Brontide natural butylene glycol, a multifunctional ingredient for formulators who want to boost the performance of their products. A replacement for petroleum-based butylene glycol, Brontide natural butylene glycol is created through the fermentation of plant sugars rather than the conventional petrochemical process—which begins with acetaldehyde, a mutagen and carcinogen. The Multifunctional Role of Butylene Glycol Butylene glycol is an organic, colorless alcohol used in a broad range of personal care products as a humectant, an antimicrobial agent and a solvent. As a multifunctional ingredient, butylene glycol is a key component of various personal care products and cosmetics in the market today, including serums, masks, cleansers, scrubs and lotions. Design of the Study To further explore the benefits of Brontide natural butylene glycol in personal care products, Genomatica commissioned Here2Grow—a British research and development firm named Cosmetics Development Specialist of the Year UK 2021, as part of the Innovation and Excellence Awards, presented by Corporate LiveWire—to conduct a study on natural solvent performance in hand creams to substantiate the impact a multifunctional natural solvent can have in personal care products. Results from the October 2021 study indicated that Brontide natural butylene glycol delivered superior performance in nearly all 10 sensory attributes tested, including gloss, reduced stickiness, spreadability and after-feel, compared to other natural glycols. The Here2Grow study used a panel of 28 consumers who were trained prior to testing to identify sensory attributes. Participants were asked to perform a home-user sensory evaluation with an emphasis on product nuances, ranging from appearance to rheology and skin feel. Panelists were then asked to rank three hand cream formulations that were identical except for a single ingredient. That variable—a chemical compound containing multiple hydroxyl groups, known as a diol—was one of three naturally derived diols commonly used in skin care products: Genomatica’s plant-based Brontide natural butylene glycol along with longstanding natural ingredients, glycerine and propanediol. These diol compounds are similar at the molecular level, yet their small molecular variances can result in noticeable differences in finished skin care formulations. To determine the characteristics a particular diol contributes to a formulation, a basic oil-in-water hand cream was developed. The three diols were prepared in identical formulations at a concentration of 3%. The remaining ingredients in the test hand cream were aqua, coco-caprylate/caprate, guar gum, parfum, sunflower seed oil, squalene, potassium sorbate, avocado oil, tocopherol, sodium benzoate, phenoxyethanol and glyceryl stearate. The research team developed a set of 10 sensorial attributes on which each formulation would be evaluated. These parameters were selected for their critical value in determining the effectiveness of a hand cream and identifying the areas where a multifunctional diol solvent can influence the consumer experience. Each dimension was evaluated on a scale of one to nine.
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